Mo Yu Ning Pine, Alkali Fragrant Tibetan Rhyme: Chinese preserved eggs, through hundreds of years of traditional flavor treasures

in the dining tables, marinated food stalls and home-made cold dishes in the north and south of China's great rivers, there is a very recognizable traditional egg product. It has a simple appearance, but when it is peeled off, it can be seen that the protein is dark green and transparent, and it is embedded with white crystals that stretch like pine branches. This is * * Chinese preserved egg * *, also called pine egg and changed egg. Some people in the outside world call it "dark cuisine", but for the Chinese, it is the protagonist of cold dishes in midsummer, the finishing touch of porridge to warm the stomach, and a flavor symbol that has been passed down for hundreds of years and condenses the wisdom of ancient food materials. Each unique alkali fragrance and soft heart hide the tolerance and ingenuity of Chinese food.

I am Su Wanting, a native of Wujiang, Jiangsu Province. My ancestors have run a time-honored marinated egg shop for three generations, focusing on researching and sharing the history and eating methods of traditional Chinese egg products for five years. Growing up in the alkali fragrance of preserved eggs, I have seen too many diners hesitate when they first taste it, and I also understand that old diners are extremely particular about the degree of looseness and the texture of pine flowers. Pied eggs are never curious ingredients for me. They are cold preserved eggs made by my grandmother in the morning with porridge. They are cold dishes that cannot be beaten at festive family dinners. They are homely tastes that can be found all over the country and are branded by different regions.

The origin of preserved eggs is full of folk tales full of fireworks in the market. The well-documented history can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty. Wujiang, Tianjin and other places in Jiangsu are the birthplaces of early crafts. There is a saying that "it started in Tianjin and became in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. It is said that during the Taichang years of the Ming Dynasty, the owner of a small teahouse in Wujiang mistakenly poured the soaked tea into the ashes of the furnace. The ducks laid eggs in the ashes and were forgotten. When they were discovered a long time later, the eggs had become dark and bright, with pine patterns, and the taste was smooth and refreshing. This is the embryonic form of preserved eggs. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the process was continuously improved, from plant ash wrapping to soup dipping. Preserved eggs were discovered by chance and gradually became a traditional food loved by both the north and the south, and even spread overseas, becoming a characteristic food representing Chinese flavor.

The production of authentic preserved eggs is a precisely controlled alkaline conversion. The traditional process relies on natural raw materials and no chemical flavors are added. Fresh duck eggs (a few eggs) are the first choice for raw materials. When selecting, light inspection is required to eliminate damaged and stale eggs. Then mix quicklime, soda ash, plant ash, salt and black tea powder in proportion, add water to make viscous mud or soup. Duck eggs are evenly wrapped in mud, or immersed in soup, sealed and placed in a cool place for 40-50 days. Strong alkali passes through the micropores of the eggshell to denature the egg white and yolk protein, forming a transparent dark color and symbolic pine flower crystal (magnesium ion crystal), while the soft heart originates from the mixture of oil and protein in the egg yolk that is not completely solidified. Modern regular manufacturers generally use the lead-free process (replacing traditional yellow Dan powder with copper sulfate and zinc sulfate), which meets the national food safety standards and completely dispels the concerns of lead residues.

China has a vast territory, and the flavor and eating method of preserved eggs also have their own merits. Jiangnan region prefers cold preserved eggs, which are cut into petals, watered with mature vinegar, raw soy sauce, garlic powder, sesame oil, and garnished with coriander to relieve greasy appetizers. Hunan's preserved eggs with peppers are a must. Green peppers scorched by charcoal fire are mixed with preserved eggs into a bowl, fermented with lobster and garlic powder. Hot oil is fragrant. Rice is a magic tool for rice. In Guangdong and Hong Kong, preserved egg porridge, the dense porridge bottom is mixed with the alkali fragrance of preserved eggs and the fresh fragrance of lean meat, which moistens and nourishes the stomach. However, Chongqing Yongchuan, Jiangxi Yuanzhou, Jiangsu Gaoyou and other places all have their own non-preserved egg techniques. The transparency of protein, the softness of egg yolk and the intensity of flavor all have distinct regional characteristics.

Many people will not adapt to the unique alkali fragrance when they first taste preserved eggs. In fact, there is a clear emphasis on tasting preserved eggs. High-quality preserved eggs, the eggshell is complete and crack-free, the protein Q bomb is shiny after peeling, the pine flower texture is clear, the egg yolk is soft and heart-shaped, not hard and not thin; The entrance is first light alkali fragrance, followed by smooth protein, dense egg yolk, fresh aftertaste and no pungent peculiar smell. When eating, it is recommended to match acidic seasonings (mature vinegar, lemon juice) to neutralize some alkalinity and reduce the sense of lightness and astringency; at the same time, preserved eggs have high sodium content and should not be eaten excessively, especially for people with high blood pressure, and their intake should be controlled.

In the past, when materials were scarce, preserved eggs were high-quality ingredients that were easy to store and could be eaten. The protein content of a preserved egg was comparable to that of a small portion of lean meat. Today, it is no longer a choice to satisfy hunger, but it is still a carrier of dining table culture. Festive family dinner, friends get together, tea house morning tea, cold preserved eggs, preserved egg lean meat porridge, rolled chili preserved eggs, there is always a preserved egg cuisine can adapt to the scene. Many time-honored egg shops still insist on hand-wrapped mud and slow-working pickling to keep the traditional flavor and texture; while industrial production allows more people to eat this traditional food through lead-free technology and standardized processes.

With the blending of global food culture, preserved eggs have gradually become the topic of food in the international food circle from Chinese home cooking. Some people are in awe and some love. But regardless of the external evaluation, it is always an important part of the Chinese diet memory. Its unique flavor stems from the accidental discovery of the ancients in the life of the market, but also from the improvement of the craftsmanship handed down from generation to generation; it is not only a dish, but also the wisdom of "turning the ordinary into magic" in the Chinese diet. It is a homely taste that spans regions and connects family ties.

To judge a traditional cuisine, you can never just look at the surface. The dark green and pine flowers of preserved eggs seem strange, but in fact they are the perfect cooperation of time and raw materials. If you haven't really tried Chinese preserved eggs, you may as well find a reliable time-honored brand, order a classic cold preserved eggs, put down your prejudice, and slowly taste the unique alkali fragrance, smooth taste and dense heart. Perhaps you will find that this flavor, which has been passed down for hundreds of years, hides the most authentic Chinese fireworks and ingenuity.